Retinoids are a world of their own. If retinol was not enough for you, here are two other increasingly popular variants: retinal (retinaldehyde) and retinyl (retinyl esters).
Retinoids are compounds derived from vitamin A, which stimulate the skin’s natural production of collagen and elastin, reduce the appearance of dark spots and discolouration, and are effective in minimising acne.
To understand the difference between them, you first need to know that the only form of vitamin A that the skin recognises is retinoic acid, the purest version of the retinoids. This acid is much more aggressive and irritating to the skin than any other, so it requires a prescription and medical monitoring.
All other retinoids, once applied to the skin, must go through several steps to become retinoic acid. The fewer steps means the more ‘pure’ they are, the closer to being retinoic acid but also, therefore, the greater the potency and ability to irritate the skin.
So which one is best to use in each case? While they all serve the same purpose, their degree of potency means that for certain issues one is more effective than another, while bearing in mind that not all skins can tolerate the stronger retinoids:
Retinyl
As it has a very low oxidation, the skin tolerates it much better, so it is especially suitable for sensitive skin or for those who want to start in the world of retinoids.
It can be used on a daily basis.
Retinol
It is mainly used to treat blemishes, acne, reducing pore clogging and regulating sebum, and to treat ageing due to its ability to stimulate collagen production and accelerate cell renewal. This reduces wrinkles and improves skin texture.
It is usually used at night, as this is when the skin has a greater capacity for renewal, although high exposure to the sun (especially in summer) also reduces the effects of the compound.
It is also important to know that this form of vitamin A is found in some fruits and animal foods such as milk and eggs, among others.
Retinal
It is more potent than retinyl and retinol, which makes it also effective in treating acne, ageing, and blemishes. The difference is that results will be seen faster than with the previous compounds, but it also has a greater capacity for irritation.
Considerations for use
- If you start your treatment with retinoids, it is best to start with less frequent applications and increase according to your skin’s tolerance.
- Keep skin well hydrated to counteract the dryness that can accompany the use of these ingredients.
- The effects of retinoids can lead to increased sensitivity to the sun, so it is important to apply a daily sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30.
In conclusion, the best retinoid for you will depend on your treatment goal, your skin’s tolerance to these compounds, and the stage you are at with these products.
Even so, as we always say, it is important to consult a specialist to determine the condition of your skin, and which products may be most suitable in your case.
