The current trend in dermatology and what patients are looking for is clear: less focus on fillers and more emphasis on improving skin quality. As dermatologists, we know that healthy skin is essential for a good appearance, and maintaining its proper function is key. While there are numerous treatments available to enhance skin quality, one procedure stands out for its fast results and affordability: the chemical peel.
What is a Chemical Peel?
The term «peeling» comes from the English word «peel,» meaning to remove or strip away. A chemical peel is a treatment that removes a layer of skin to trigger a process of peeling or exfoliation. Specifically, a chemical peel uses an acid-based exfoliating agent to break down the protein bonds in the skin, stimulating exfoliation and skin regeneration.
The primary goal of chemical peels is to regenerate the skin, which leads to the renewal of the dermal matrix. Depending on the type of substance or combination of substances used, chemical peels can address a variety of common skin concerns, such as:
- Pigmentation or discoloration
- Certain types of scars
- Skin texture improvement
- Wrinkles and other signs of aging
- Enhancing skin radiance
- Acne and sebaceous conditions
- Stretch marks
- Pigmented and vascular dark circles under the eyes
Factors Influencing the Depth of a Chemical Peel
Every chemical peel treatment is individualized, tailored to meet specific goals. There are various substances that can be applied to the skin, and their depth of action can be adjusted depending on several factors.
In general, the higher the concentration of the peeling agent and the lower its pH, the stronger its effect. However, other factors also play a role in customizing the depth of the peel:
- The exfoliating agents used in the peel
- The concentration of these agents
- The number of layers applied
- The carrier or base of the peel
- The duration of contact with the skin
- The tool used for application, such as a brush, gauze, or cotton
To ensure the best results, it’s crucial to assess the skin thoroughly, understand the patient’s needs and goals, and consider the recovery time they can accommodate. With this information, customized treatment plans can be developed to achieve the desired results while respecting the patient’s daily life.
Different Types of Chemical Peels
There are various substances and combinations that can be used for chemical peels, which can be tailored to suit individual treatment needs as described earlier. Chemical peels are generally divided into three main categories:
Superficial Peels
These are the mildest type, working on the outermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum). They typically involve minimal recovery time. Although they are designed to provide subtle effects without causing noticeable peeling, they do lead to gradual, less noticeable exfoliation.
Medium-depth Peels
These peels target the basal layer and the papillary dermis of the skin. They usually require around five days of recovery, although this can vary depending on the specific peel. Medium-depth peels are often used to treat pigmentation issues and improve skin texture.
Deep Peels
These are the most intense, penetrating deep into the reticular dermis. They deliver the most dramatic results, often being chosen for significant rejuvenation or correcting severe skin texture concerns. The recovery period for deep peels is typically over 7 days.
Superficial Peels
At Clínica Dermatológica De Felipe, we offer a variety of peels with different depths, each designed to address common skin concerns.
Salicylic Acid Peel (10-25%)
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that is oil-soluble. Peels with salicylic acid are especially effective for treating oily and combination skin, as well as sebaceous conditions such as acne, blackheads, and comedones. Since BHAs are more soluble in areas with higher oil production, these peels act more intensively in problem areas, providing quick and noticeable results with minimal recovery time.
Glow Peel (20% Glycolic Acid Peel)
The Glow Peel combines 20% glycolic acid and 10% lactic acid to promote a gentle skin renewal process. This peel brightens and hydrates the skin, creating a smoother, more even texture with minimal peeling. It’s ideal for a quick skin refresh without significant recovery time, making it popular before special occasions or as a regular treatment to maintain healthy skin throughout the year.
Microdermabrasion
Although technically not a chemical peel, microdermabrasion is an excellent alternative for improving skin quality, especially for those with sensitive or reactive skin. It uses a diamond-tip device with microcrystals to exfoliate the skin while suctioning away dead skin cells. This technique helps to smooth the skin, reduce its thickness, and treat sebaceous conditions like acne and rosacea, providing a more even, radiant complexion.
Medium Depth Peels
Melanostop Tranex
This depigmenting peel contains 20% salicylic acid, 3% butylresorcinol, 3% kojic acid, 1.75% tranexamic acid, hexylresorcinol, and glutathione. It works by reducing melanogenesis and fading pigmentation in areas with dark spots. It is especially effective for treating solar lentigines, melasma, dull skin, and visible signs of photoaging.
Pigment Balancing Peel (40% Glycolic Acid Peel)
With 40% glycolic acid, 27% vitamin C, and 10% citric acid, this peel is designed to renew the skin while addressing common aging signs. It also targets pigmentation, brightens the complexion, and helps reduce imperfections.
Mesopeel Periocular
Specially formulated for the delicate eye area, this powerful anti-aging peel targets static expression lines and both pigmented and vascular dark circles. It revitalizes the eye contour while addressing skin sagging, one of the most common concerns in this area. The peel includes 30% glycolic acid, 14% salicylic acid, 5% phytic acid, caffeic acid, aminobutyric acid, thiotic acid, and coumarin.
Deep Chemical Peels
Phenol and TCA Peel
This treatment blends 35% Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) with 10% phenol, both of which are powerful agents used to address advanced aging signs. It deeply rejuvenates the skin, improving texture, reducing wrinkles, correcting imperfections, and tightening sagging. A maximum of two sessions per year is recommended, with at least a six-month interval between treatments. The recovery period usually extends beyond 7 days, but the peel remains a top choice for anti-aging due to its dramatic, long-lasting effects.
Melanostop Touch
A targeted peel containing 20% Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA), 4% kojic acid, and 1% ferulic acid. This treatment is ideal for stubborn pigmentation, offering intense exfoliation and lightening of dark spots. It is commonly used for solar lentigines and resistant melasma that hasn’t responded to conventional treatments.
Who is an ideal candidate for a chemical peel?
There are many types of chemical peels, each with different active ingredients and combinations. After a thorough skin assessment, almost anyone can be a good candidate for a chemical peel if it is deemed the right treatment option. Specifically, a good candidate is someone who:
- Wants to rejuvenate their skin, achieving a brighter complexion and fewer imperfections.
- Seeks to address pigmentation or hyperpigmentation concerns.
- Aims to minimize signs of aging.
- Has skin conditions like acne or rosacea and is incorporating a chemical peel as part of a broader dermatological treatment plan.
At De Felipe Dermatological Clinic, we offer consultations to evaluate your skin’s condition and understand your concerns, allowing us to create a personalized treatment plan.
How is a Chemical Peel Treatment Performed?
Pre-Chemical Peel Advice
There are several preparatory steps that can improve the results of chemical peels. While they are generally more applicable to deep and medium peels, they can be followed before any type of peel. These steps are designed to:
- Ensure even penetration of the exfoliating agent.
- Minimize recovery time.
- Reduce the risk of complications like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
- Establish a treatment-maintenance routine.
- Evaluate the patient’s tolerance to specific ingredients.
Before having a chemical peel, patients should follow these steps:
- Avoid sun exposure or UV treatments for 72 hours before the peel.
- Refrain from other treatments that might inflame the skin for at least 7 days before the peel.
- Start using glycolic acid or retinoic acid-based products 3 weeks before the procedure.
Post-Chemical Peel Care
While peeling is part of the treatment, following proper aftercare is essential for optimal skin regeneration and to avoid potential adverse effects. Here are key tips to ensure a comfortable recovery:
- Keep the skin well-moisturized.
- Avoid soaps with irritating surfactants.
- Use sun protection diligently.
- Stay away from direct sunlight, fluorescent lights, and abrupt temperature changes.
- Avoid exposure to steam (from cooking, saunas, or very hot showers) for 20 days after the peel.
- Use glycolic acid nightly (8-15%) combined with depigmenting agents (such as kojic acid, phytic acid, or hydroquinone) on areas with pigmentation, scars, or wrinkles for 2-3 weeks.
Frequently Asked Questions from Our Patients
We have gathered the most common questions our patients ask about chemical peels in London: